Thisyear turned out to be quite delicious in North Jersey.
Restaurants with top-notch chefs have opened in the past 12 months, making eatingout in the regiona lot more thrilling. From restaurants helmed by a young rising star (we're talking aboutyou, Robbie Felice)to one with an established culinary whiz (your ears ringing, David Burke?),dining out in North Jersey has become that much better, thanks to these 11spots.
Osteria Crescendo, Westwood
Robbie Felice isnot yet 30,but the chef and owner isalready a culinary superstar. He impressed critics and food lovers alike with his deft cooking in Viaggio, his rustic BYOB in Wayne. He blew them away with his culinary skill and creativityat Osteria Crescendo, hismore modern and vibrant Italian restaurant that happilyhasa full-service bar (the co*cktails are darn good).
As I wrote in my review,I would have a hard time naming anyItalian restaurant in North Jersey that's better than OC. Among the best dishes I had all year was Felice'shouse-made farfalle coated in a dark thick ragu(I'm still dreaming about it). Another terrific and stunningly gorgeousdish is hisMediterranean redprawn crudo appetizer, a lusciousconcoction of marinated shrimp tailsimmersed in a thick bright red pool of boiled down shrimp heads (Have your camera ready).
OC specializes in "large-scale" to-share entrées, including awhole crisp-on-the-outside/tender-on-the-inside boned-outbranzinoand a great bighunk ofporcini-rubbed New York strip steak.So take along a bunch of friends. But don't think about sharing dessert, especially not the olive oil cake. You're going to want every bite yourself.
Go:36 Jefferson Ave., Westwood;201-722-1900,osteriacrescendo.com.
Faubourg, Montclair
It shouldnot surprise that two French men, alums of Daniel Boulud, would opena terrific modern French brasserie. Chef Olivier Muller and his business partner, Dominique Paulin, investedmoney and time turning a bi-level retail space on Bloomfield Avenue into a sexy, lively brasserie with a hopping bar inside and another outside onits impossible-to-resistspacious patio.
The food is divine, from the classic Alsatian appetizer, tarte flambée covered with gooey melted fromage blanc and bits of smoky bacon, to that sensational nouvelle-cuisine dishsalmon and sorrel to heavenly desserts (yes, pretty much every dessert is stupendous, thanks to pastry chefMelissa Rodriguez). No matter what else you order,however, do get the palate-blowingcoq au vin: It's the best, most tender, most flavorful chicken dish I've had in a long time. Enjoy it with a nice glass of red burgundy wine. It may very welltransport you to Paris.
Go: 544 Bloomfield Ave., Montclair;973-542-7700,faubourgmontclair.com.
Benares, Wyckoff
It may be in a strip mall and its menu may resemble that of a diner — it's long and narrow — but Benares serves deliciousIndian food ina comfortable, spacious dining room. It had me at my first bite of thefirst appetizerI sampled: eggplant chaat ($9), a savory snackserved at roadside standsin India that was a flavor-packed knockout. The dishes here are flavor powerhouses, from the tender, aromatic and fillinggoat biryani tolamb rogan josh, ($22), a Kashmiri stew of juicy lamb bathed in a thick rich sauce with lotsof cardamom, ginger, garlic and cinnamon. The naans are good, too.
Come to think of it, while the menu may beimpossibly long, it does serve asa good excuse to return again and again and sample moredishes.
Go:327 Franklin Ave., Wyckoff;201-904-2222,benaresnj.com.
Ventanas, Fort Lee
What fun!
This American-Asian-Cuban restaurant housed between two, tall,glass residential buildings known as The Modernis energetic, loud, showy and darn delicious. You can thankcelebritychef David Burke, wholives in The Modern and who is known for his whimsically creative takes on food. Thank, too, executive chefAndrew Riccatelli,sushi chef Sang Choi and pastry chef Julien Chantereau, who seem to know how to make delicious food fun.
Take Burke's famouslobster dumplings that sit in a bathof chili oil and have a teeny claw sticking out of them for a handle. Or take his bulging empanadas stuffedwith aspanakopita-like filling andserved in a — surprise! — toast rack. Or take Chantereau's chocolate and caramel dessert shaped like a burger with mango sticks as French fries. You gotta smile.
Go:200 Park Ave., Fort Lee; 201-583-4777,ventanasatthemodern.com.
David Burke at Orange Lawn, South Orange
If you're a David Burke fan (count me in), you will recognize many of the celebrated chef'sfamous dishes on the menu at thecompletely renovated restaurant in the second oldest tennis club in New Jersey: his wildly creative clothesline bacon (bacon hanging on a mini-clotheslinesecured by wooden clothespins);his absurdly delicious lobster dumplings (a dumpling with a lobster claw for a handle);his architecturally stunningoctopus andchorizo kebabs (the proteins ride on skewers stuck into a slabof wood), and his patented salt-aged steaks.
These are sufficient reasons to visit Orange Lawn. But if you need more: the gigantic complimentary popovers dotted with poppy seeds; housemade cavatelli pastawith bits of crispy guanciale; and a generous portion of hipster fries piled high with bright green shish*to peppersandsmoky bits of deep mahogany-coloredbacon. And, of course, Burke's dessert creation for the tennis club: doughnuts that look like tennis balls served in a plastic tennis sleeve. They're not just a hoot, they're good.
Go:305 N. Ridgewood Road, South Orange; 973-552-2280,dborangelawn.com.
Vesta Wood Fired, East Rutherford
Todd Villani, who made his mark as chef and owner of Terre a Terre in Carlstadt, apopular seasonal restaurant he closed three years ago, today heads the kitchen of this 2,500-square-foot Italian-American restaurant with a wood hearth.Some of his best-loveddishes have made the move, too. Among them: his sublime crispy artichokes served with a flavored aioliand his to-live-for braised short ribs served with a silky smooth sweet potato purée.
The welcoming restaurant has a bar, open kitchen and two dining rooms. There are pizzas galore (you can even havetwo toppings on one pie) and delicious cannoli and crunchy biscotti to end your meal.
Go:64 Hoboken Road,East Rutherford;201-939-6012,vestawoodfired.com.
De Novo, Edgewater
De Novo has got the location thing beat. It's on the Hudson shore, offeringspectacular views of the George Washington Bridge. Its interior, with white wood-beamed ceiling, a gorgeous well-stocked bar, funky silver-and-gold-toned chairs and charmingwhite-with-a-touch-of-black bistro-tiled floors, is easy on the eyes, too. But De Novo's pasta and desserts don't play second fiddle to the scene insideor outside.
That classic three-ingredient Roman dish, cacio e pepe, was among the best I've ever had. Its butter-oil-and cream-free sauce was profoundlycreamy and delicious.The pappardelletoo, isa winner, fat noodles swaddled in an aromatic tomato sauce with nice chunks of super-tender pulled pork.
And desserts are not to be missed, especially the housemade key lime pie, theflourless chocolate cake andthe chocolate bourbonpecan pie. Get a scoop or two of gelato too. You can do an extra hour at the gym tomorrow.
Go:1257 River Road, Edgewater; 201-496-6161,denovoeuropeanpub.com.
Stern & Bow, Closter
Some restaurants just havethe"It" factor — the energy, the fun, the exuberance that's difficult to put your finger onbut obviousto dinersthe minute theywalkin. Stern & Bow, restaurateur Russel Stern's new 155-seat three-barrestaurant, is one.
Stern is the man who for 13 years ran popular Harvest Bistro & Bar around the corner (it's currently home to Ben Pollinger's restaurant, The Hill).Today you can see affable Sterngreet diners at Stern & Bow and hop from table to table, knowing exactly when to chatand when to leave his guestsalone.
They've come for the fresh oysters (the oyster bar has an"oyster omakase" that's a must to experience), the pizzas (a gorgeous pizza oven spits out well-made Neapolitan-style pies), pastas and New Orleans eats (Stern attended Tulane University and fell in love with that food-loving city). Highly recommended:fried oysters topped by apple relish, gigantic prawns with grits, andheadypasta with slow-braised beef ragu. And, let's not forget the well-made co*cktails (thumbs up for the Negroni and the Stern & Bow made with bourbon, sweet vermouth and Luxardo cherry).
End your meal leisurely with a glass of sublime pear liqueur Belle de Brillet — and there's a good chanceStern will join you.
Go:171 Schraalenburgh Road, Closter;201-750-3350,sternandbowrestaurant.com.
Cafe Chameleon, Bloomingdale
Forget the decor: plastic flowers, motelart, a fakefireplace (LED!), and overhead lighting that constantly changes colors(like a chameleon, get it?). The food, on the other hand, is nearly impossible to forget.
Much of it is divine. From the tender sea scallopscovered with strands of braised cabbage to the just-right housemade fettuccine swaddledin kale pestoto the chocolate lava cake accompanied byhomemade ice cream, dinner here is a delight. The heavily salted (in a good way) bread made with pizza dough, the lusciously creamybutter,the al dente pastas and luxurious ice creams are all made in-house. Who cares if the flowers are real when the food is so good.
Go:60 Main St., Bloomingdale; 973-850-6969,cafe-chameleon.com.
More North Jersey eats news
FOR SUBSCRIBERS:Osteria Crescendo in Westwood proves that Robbie Felice is a culinary superstar
REVIEW:Is Faubourg in Montclair the best French restaurant in NJ?
DAVID BURKE:David Burke wows with signature dishes at Orange Lawn
TOP PICKS 2018:Best North Jersey restaurants of 2018
EstherDavidowitzis thefood editor for NorthJersey.com. For more on where to dine and drink, pleasesubscribe todayand sign up forourNorth Jersey Eats newsletter.
Email:davidowitz@northjersey.comTwitter:@estherdavido
