A bastion of Malta, the tiny island nation in the Mediterranean, the golden, flaky pastry filled with ricotta (irkotta) or curry-spiced mushy peas (pizelli) has been a constant in my life. I have plenty of memories of the freezer in the family home stacked high with trays of frozen pastizzi covered in blue plastic, ready to throw in the oven at a moments notice.
It's the versatility that has propelled pastizzi to the top of the Maltese food chain. Looking for a quick snack, don't have any dinner plans and don't have enough in the pantry? Your answer is pastizzi. Got people coming over and need something to serve? Pastizzi. Been a long day and looking for some familial comfort? Cue, pastizzi.
Although Malta's cuisine remains arguably underrated in the Australian food landscape, the pastizzi is a universally beloved snack. It has arguably become one of Malta's most recognisable culinary exports, and is known as a life raft in both good times and bad.
There are many places you can get pastizzi. Credit: cdkproductions - stock.adobe.com
As important pastizzi has been in my own life, it's also been the connective tissue to explain Malta to people unfamiliar with the country or the culture, giving concise and deliciousinsight into the storied history of Malta, from its Arabic, Italian and British influences.
You'll find a signpost from each culture imbued into pastizzi, from the golden pastry arguably derived from the Arabic borek to the rich ricotta filling similar to that of Italy's sfogiatelle, to the curried mushy pea filling of pizelli pastizzi a remaining influence from British occupation – a motley collection of cultural and culinary footprints in one tidy little parcel.
Nowadays, there are many spots to get your hands on pastizzi. It's even available in the freezer sections of most major supermarkets, but for a long time, pastizzi was a clandestine affair, typically produced in family homes and sold at Maltese clubs across the country.
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Feels like home: Jacqui Challinor's Maltese pastizzi is a true labour of loveJacqui Challinor, executive chef of Nomad Group who is of Maltese heritage, honed her pastizzi-making craft during lockdown. She describes the love-hate relationship she developed learning to make them. "They’re a real labour of love; sometimes you do it and the dough is perfect and other times its not, and when it's perfect it's a lovely thing, but when it's not you just want to pull your hair out," Challinor tells SBS Food.
When Challinor first asked her mother for a recipe, she was met with the response: "I don’t have one, we only ever bought them."
This is a sentiment followed by many Maltese in Australia who lacked the means of production and finesse for pastizzi. "You've really got the bash the dough out to get them nice and thin and you need a lot of space," Challinor says. "Also, if the temperature isn't quite right in the kitchen, the fat ends up melting everywhere, so you kind of need the perfect conditions."
They’re a real labour of love.
Instead, many Maltese opt for purchasing trays of frozen pastizzi ready to bake in the oven. But considering the proud but small population, acquiring pastizzi has not always been the easiest of things, which has often resulted in pastizzi-making operations out of Maltese homes or a few dedicated shops or local clubs.
'A Maltese Feast' explores Julia Busuttil Nishimura and Jacqui Challinor's heritage through food. Credit: Supplied
Lauded cook and author Julia Busuttil Nishimura tells SBS Food, "The best pastizzi I've ever eaten was from our Maltese club in Adelaide."
"You would buy them frozen and they were just so good. My father was the president, so we were there every weekend.
"My first memory is biting into one and it absolutely scolding my mouth," says Busuttil Nishimura.
My first memory is biting into one and it absolutely scolding my mouth.
Busuttil Nishimura, who also has Maltese heritage, will later be flying the Maltese flag with Challinor at a sold-out dinner event at Nomad as part of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival 2024.
They will host
, which will explore several steadfast staples imbued with modern interpretations – from ħobż (Maltese bread) served alongside homemade duck mortadella, gbejniet (white sheep's milk cheese with black pepper) and of course the pièce de resistance, the pastizzi.
Thanks to a new generation of Maltese heritage culinary talents from Julia and Jacqui to Shane Delia (Maha) to Jake Cassar (Mortadeli) the flavours and tastes of Malta are being brought further to the forefront, where the pastizzi have stood for so long as the primary example new dishes and specialities will join.
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About Maltese foodMaltese-style bruschetta (hobż biż-żejt)
Maltese traditional biscuit with sesame seeds
How well do you really know Maltese cuisine (beyond pastizzi)?
FAQs
It's the versatility that has propelled pastizzi to the top of the Maltese food chain. Looking for a quick snack, don't have any dinner plans and don't have enough in the pantry? Your answer is pastizzi.
What kind of pastizzi are in Malta? ›
Pastizzi usually have a filling either of ricotta (pastizzi tal-irkotta or pastizzi tal-ħaxu in Maltese) or curried peas (pastizzi tal-piżelli in Maltese). Pastizzi are a popular and well-known traditional Maltese food. It should not be confused with the Italian pastizz, better known as u' pastizz 'rtunnar.
What is the culinary history of Malta? ›
Maltese cuisine reflects Maltese history; it shows strong Italian influences as well as influences from Spanish, French, Provençal, and other Mediterranean cuisines, with some later British culinary influence.
When were pastizzi invented? ›
Little is known about when and how pastizzi were invented. It is known that even before 1200BC, much of the local diet consisted of bread, mainly eaten with vegetables and animal products such as cheese.
What is the most popular food in Malta? ›
A traditional rabbit stew, stuffat tal-fenek is considered the national dish of Malta. This lovingly prepared dish is slow-cooked to ensure the meat falls off the bone and blends with a rich tomato, red wine and garlic sauce.
Why is Maltese bread so good? ›
A piece of old sour dough is incorporated into the fresh batch with aerates the dough giving it an airy chewy centre unique in taste and texture. Of course, one must highlight that this bread is cooked in stone-based ovens which enhances the taste and give a crispier crust.
Is Malta good for food? ›
Maltese cuisine can be summed up as Mediterranean cuisine with Continental and Arabic influences. But Malta restaurants range from your standard family restaurant to boutique restaurants, where the menu changes daily depending on the available fresh ingredients of the day and the chef's inspiration.
Who is the father of culinary history? ›
Auguste Escoffier, known as the “Father of Modern Cuisine,” redefined French cooking and established new culinary principles that encompassed refinement, organization, and innovation.
Is Malta rich in history? ›
Malta boasts of a rich historical heritage dating back more than 7,000 years. Malta's rich and distinct history is linked to its geographical location in the centre of the Mediterranean Sea, offering an excellent strategic position both in terms of military and trading objectives.
Are pastizzi fried? ›
The pastry is folded into a small, diamond or triangle shape and then baked until golden and crispy. Pastizzi are a beloved snack or appetizer in Malta, enjoyed by locals and visitors alike.
The pastry may contain lard, butter or non-vegan margarine while sometimes meat is added to the pea mixture and to top it off they're glazed with egg wash. The only way to make sure the pastizzi you're buying are vegan is to buy them frozen since ingredients will be listed on the packaging.
How long to cook frozen pastizzi? ›
Place frozen Pastizzi on an ungreased baking tray. Bake 12-15 minutes or until golden brown. Temperature Variation: Cooking times are a guide only and may vary according to power, age and condition of appliance used. Take care when handling heated products.
What is Malta famous for producing? ›
The major crops are potatoes, tomatoes, and fruit (especially citrus and drupes). Since the late 1990s there has been a substantial increase in grapevine and olive production. Malta is generally self-sufficient in food production, but beef is mostly imported.
What is the history of Malta food? ›
A TIMELINE OF FOOD
c 1,200 BC | People in Malta eat bread. They also eat sheep, pigs, cows and goats as well as ducks, geese and fish. They grow marrows, beans, lentils, leeks, radishes and lettuces |
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c 70 AD | The Romans introduce new foods, celery, cabbages, radishes, carrots, cucumbers, broad beans and walnuts. |
23 more rows
Why is food expensive in Malta? ›
“Malta imports around 70% of its food products and is therefore particularly susceptible to developments in international food prices and other commodity prices that affect food production as well as transport costs,” the CBM said.
What is the traditional liquor in Malta? ›
Malt liquor is typically straw to pale amber in color. While traditional premium lager is made primarily from barley, water, and hops, malt liquors tend to make much greater use of inexpensive adjuncts such as corn, rice, or dextrose.
What is the most popular dessert in Malta? ›
Favorite? Prinjolata is a traditional Maltese cake that is usually prepared for a carnival that takes place the week before and the week leading up to Ash Wednesday. The name of the cake comes from the term prinjol—pine nut, which is the main ingredient in the cake.
What is the alcoholic drink of Malta? ›
Apart from wine and beer, Malta is also famous for its own liqueurs such as Lumicetta ta' Mari (a lemon infused liqueur), Bajtrija (made with the juicy part of prickly pears) and Hanini Digestiv (an after-dinner liqueur made with carobs, caramel and aromatic herbs).
What is Malta famous pastry? ›
Delicious little Pastizzi are considered the national snack of Malta. These crispy pastry shells are stuffed with ricotta or mushy pea fillings.