Fall is the season for the brassica family, that large group of vegetables that includes cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi and cauliflower. The word “cauliflower” comes from the Latin words “calvo” for “cabbage” and “fiore” for flower. So cauliflower has some of the mustardy, funky flavor and strong aroma of all cabbages, and it has the florettes that make it visually so appealing.
If you like the cabbage-like flavor of cauliflower, then boiling it is the best way to bring that flavor out. If you want to tame those cabbage aromas, the best thing to do is to caramelize the cauliflower. This is true of any vegetable — boiling it will give you a flavor closer to the raw flavor, which means more bitterness and more astringency. Caramelizing it will bring out its hidden sweetness.
This light, vibrant roasted cauliflower salad is a recipe I developed for the fall menu at Duo. We have members of the brassica family all over the menu—steamed savoy cabbage used to make rolls filled with rice and mushrooms; boiled cabbage in a barley salad; Brussels sprouts leaves in a beef tongue broth and as garnish for elk; and a broccoli pesto on a grilled chicken breast.
Though this salad isn’t exactly traditional, it owes something to flavors of Southern Italy, especially the combination of red pepper, raisin, parsley and chili flakes.
Roasted cauliflower should be served fresh — once it’s been refrigerated it doesn’t have the same flavor and texture it has minutes out of the oven.
Roasted Cauliflower salad
Roasted Cauliflower Salad With Roasted Peppers and Golden Raisins
Makes about 6 servings.
Ingredients
2 quarts cauliflower florettes
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 roasted bell pepper, julienned (about a half cup, jarred)
2 tablespoons finely diced red onion
4 tablespoons golden raisins
1 cup parsley leaves, rinsed and dried
Pinch chile flakes
4 tablespoons coarsely chopped bread crumbs
Juice of 1 lemon
Directions
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Toss the cauliflower in 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Spread onto a small baking sheet and roast about 20 minutes until caramelized but still al dente. Reserve at room temperature.
In the same oven, place the coriander seeds in a small skillet and roast about 1 minutes. Remove and coarsely crush the coriander with a mallet or the bottom of a skillet. Set aside.
Place the cauliflower, bell pepper, red onion, coriander seeds, raisins, parsley leaves, chili flakes and bread crumbs in a mixing bowl.
Sprinkle the salad with the remaining olive oil , the lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Serve at room temperature.
