Home & Garden|Hot-Cross Buns: Giving Tradition A Fresh Accent
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HOT and cross. That's the way The London Daily Telegraph described a reader who complained about the high price of hot-cross buns in 1972. They had long since increased in price beyond the usual "one a penny, two a penny" of the 18th-century nursery rhyme.
Elizabeth David, the English food writer, mentioned this incident in "English Bread and Yeast Cookery" (Viking Press, 1980) and went on to say that "frozen and cross" was more like it. She said that giant commercial bakeries that make the buns often used acrid, artificial flavorings -- well in advance of Good Friday, when they are traditionally eaten -- and then freeze them for later sale. Her solution to the problems of rising prices and decreasing quality was to make them at home.
The English custom of serving the sweet, fruit-studded buns seasoned with spices like nutmeg and clove and decorated with a cross only for Good Friday may come as a surprise to Americans accustomed to seeing them in bakeries and supermarkets from the beginning of Lent through Easter.
"I noticed hot-cross buns in February, and it seemed so strange because it wasn't Good Friday," said Jane Kettlewell, a publicist from Sussex in southern England, who has been working in New York for six years. "We would always have hot-cross buns for breakfast on Good Friday, split, toasted and buttered, but never before the holiday."
Ms. Kettlewell said she saw the buns for sale in an Italian bakery in Astoria. She would also have seen them in a German bakery, Stork's, in nearby Whitestone. They're also made at Les Friandises, a French-style bakery on the Upper West Side in Manhattan, and elsewhere in the country by a variety of bakeries.
Of all the sweet, buttery, eggy, yeast-raised Easter breads that are part of the holiday celebration in countries throughout Europe, hot-cross buns appear to have most easily crossed ethnic lines when they crossed the Atlantic.
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